Gaja, Ca Marcanda, Camarcanda DOCG Tuscany, 2017

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"The Gaja family at its Camarcanda estate is leading a silent revolution. Certified organic, although this is not mentioned, the winery has overturned Merlot for Cabernets and cordon training for guyot in the vineyards. Since 2015 it has introduced concrete and oak along with stainless steel for fermentation. Now it is experimenting with whole clusters, and the oak ageing was sensibly reduced. The 2017 vintage shines for its bright cassis fruit, melded with blackberry and cherry, then leafy and cedary notes to develop garrigue in depth. The creamy and dense palate has almost firm acidity and shows a bit of a dry finish, but otherwise this is hedonistically supple."—Decanter

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